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The marine iguana rarely strays far from its watery habitat, but it comes ashore to warm itself in the sun.

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The creatures claws tightly grasp the rough volcanic rock. A
wave crashes over its black-green body, over the ridge of pointy
spikes rising from its spine, over reptilian eyes that seem to
register nothing. Dripping now with the cold water of the Pacific
Ocean, the animal extends another foot forward. Its long digits,
sensing like a beetles antennae, feel around for a new place
to grab hold. Slowly it pulls itself out of the cold sea and
up to a ropy flow of lava rock to absorb the heat of the equatorial
sun.
This scene could be millions of years old, but it is actually
late in 1999 a date that feels strangely arbitrary while watching
a dinosaur-like marine iguana crawl from the brine onto a volcano.
This particular marine iguana clambers on the edge of Fernandina,
the youngest of the 14 Galápagos Islands. Other marine iguanas
perch like gargoyles on the edges of all the islands in this
chain, the only place in the world the species is found. According
to some biologists, these algae eating reptiles split from their
land dwelling cousins some 15 million years ago. Yet the oldest
existing Galápagos Island is just more than three million years
old.
 | | Blue-footed boobies are just one of myriad bird species
found on the islands.
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So how does science explain the existence of an animal, slowly
evolving for perhaps 15 million years, on a series of islands
only a few million years old? The answer lies in the geologic
history of the Galápagos and the marine iguanas strange method
of distribution.
Fernandina rises ghost-like out of the eastern Pacific. Veils
of rough basalt cascade down its steep upper slopes while solid
rivers of the black rock braid down its gentle lower ones. Fields
of cracked and broken lava, frozen in spatters and ropy flows,
surround the base of the peak and end abruptly at the shore.
Under the water, its flanks drop thousands of feet to the sea
floor. The islands sit over the base of a great plume of molten
rock rising from deep within the earth. Known as a "hot spot,"
this column of magma feeds the volcanoes that make up the famous
Galápagos Islands, 600 miles west of Ecuador.
The surface of the planet is sheathed with a broken collection
of thin rock shells known as tectonic plates, which drift over
such plumes. The Galápagos Islands ride on a slow moving oceanic
plate called the Nazca. This plate drifts eastward over the hot spot like a sheet of metal slowly pulled over a cutting torch. A scar of volcanoes is left in its wake. The islands, born of
magma, build gradually as the plate drifts over the swell of
the plume. Fernandina is located directly over the hot spot and,
at about one million years old, is the youngest island of this
chain. To the east of this mighty mountain, older slowly cooling
islands gently recede back into the sea as time, and distance,
remove them from the hot spot.
Submerged islands have been found some 500 miles and nearly 15
million years away, in a cold graveyard beneath the sea. The
ancient relics sit on the western edge of the Pacific Ring of
Fire, the volcanic border outlining the Pacific basin. They will
eventually sink down under the South American continent as the
tectonic plate recycles back into the earth.
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